Part One Saturday

I Every parking space in Church Row was taken by nine o'clock in the morning. Darkly clothed mourners moved, singly, in pairs and in groups, up and down the street, converging, like a stream of iron filings drawn to a magnet, on St Michael and All Saints. The path leading to the church doors became crowded, then overflowed; those who were displaced fanned out among the graves, seeking safe spots to stand between the headstones, fearful of trampling on the dead, yet unwilling to move too far from the church entrance. It was clear to everyone that there would not be enough pews for all the people who had come to say goodbye to Barry Fairbrother. His co-workers from the bank, who were grouped around the most extravagant of the Sweetlove tombs, wished that the august representative from head office would move on and take his inane small-talk and his clumsy jokes with him. Lauren, Holly and Jennifer from the rowing team had separated from their parents to huddle together in the shade of a mossy-fingered yew. Parish councillors, a motley bunch, talked solemnly in the middle of the path: a clutch of balding heads and thick-lensed glasses; a smattering of black straw hats and cultured pearls. Men from the squash and golf clubs hailed each other in subdued fashion; old friends from university recognized each other from afar and edged together; and in between milled what seemed to be most of Pagford, in their smartest and most sombre-hued clothes. The air droned with quiet conversations; faces flickered, watching and waiting. Tessa Wall's best coat, which was of grey wool, was cut so tightly around the armholes that she could not raise her arms above chest height. Standing beside her son on one side of the church path, she was exchanging sad little smiles and waves with acquaintances, while continuing to argue with Fats through lips she was trying not to move too obviously. ‘For God's sake, Stu. He was your father's best friend. Just this once, show some consideration.' ‘No one told me it was going to go on this bloody long. You told me it'd be over by half-past eleven.' ‘Don't swear. I said we'd leave St Michael's at about half-past eleven – ‘ ‘ – so I thought it'd be over, didn't I? So I arranged to meet Arf.' ‘But you've got to come to the burial, your father's a pall-bearer! Ring Arf and tell him it'll have to be tomorrow instead.' ‘He can't do tomorrow. Anyway, I haven't got my mobile on me. Cubby told me not to bring it to church.' ‘Don't call your father Cubby! You can ring Arf on mine,' said Tessa, burrowing in her pocket. ‘I don't know his number by heart,' lied Fats coldly. She and Colin had eaten dinner without Fats the previous evening, because he had cycled up to Andrew's place, where they were working on their English project together. That, at any rate, was the story Fats had given his mother, and Tessa had pretended to believe it. It suited her too well to have Fats out of the way, incapable of upsetting Colin. At least he was wearing the new suit that Tessa had bought for him in Yarvil. She had lost her temper at him in the third shop, because he had looked like a scarecrow in everything he had tried on, gawky and graceless, and she had thought angrily that he was doing it on purpose; that he could have inflated the suit with a sense of fitness if he chose. ‘Shh!' said Tessa pre-emptively. Fats was not speaking, but Colin was approaching them, leading the Jawandas; he seemed, in his overwrought state, to be confusing the role of pall-bearer with that of usher; hovering by the gates, welcoming people. Parminder looked grim and gaunt in her sari, with her children trailing behind her; Vikram, in his dark suit, looked like a film star. A few yards from the church doors, Samantha Mollison was waiting beside her husband, looking up at the bright off-white sky and musing on all the wasted sunshine beating down on top of the high ceiling of cloud. She was refusing to be dislodged from the hard-surfaced path, no matter how many old ladies had to cool their ankles in the grass; her patent-leather high heels might sink into the soft earth, and become dirty and clogged. When acquaintances hailed them, Miles and Samantha responded pleasantly, but they were not speaking to each other. They had had a row the previous evening. A few people had asked after Lexie and Libby, who usually came home at weekends, but both girls were staying over at friends' houses. Samantha knew that Miles regretted their absence; he loved playing paterfamilias in public. Perhaps, she thought, with a most pleasurable leap of fury, he would ask her and the girls to pose with him for a picture on his election leaflets. She would enjoy telling him what she thought of that idea. She could tell that he was surprised by the turnout. No doubt he was regretting that he did not have a starring role in the forthcoming service; it would have been an ideal opportunity to begin a surreptitious campaign for Barry's seat on the council with this big audience of captive voters. Samantha made a mental note to drop a sarcastic allusion to the missed opportunity when a suitable occasion arose. ‘Gavin!' called Miles, at the sight of a familiar, fair and narrow head. ‘Oh, hi, Miles. Hi, Sam.' Gavin's new black tie shone against his white shirt. There were violet bags under his light eyes. Samantha leaned in on tiptoes, so that he could not decently avoid kissing her on the cheek and inhaling her musky perfume. ‘Big turnout, isn't it?' Gavin said, gazing around. ‘Gavin's a pall-bearer,' Miles told his wife, in precisely the way that he would have announced that a small and unpromising child had been awarded a book token for effort. In truth, he had been a little surprised when Gavin had told him he had been accorded this honour. Miles had vaguely imagined that he and Samantha would be privileged guests, surrounded by a certain aura of mystery and importance, having been at the deathbed. It might have been a nice gesture if Mary, or somebody close to Mary, had asked him, Miles, to read a lesson, or say a few words to acknowledge the important part he had played in Barry's final moments. Samantha was deliberately unsurprised that Gavin had been singled out. ‘You and Barry were quite close, weren't you, Gav?' Gavin nodded. He felt jittery and a little sick. He had had a very bad night's sleep, waking in the early hours from horrible dreams in which, first, he had dropped the coffin, so that Barry's body spilt out onto the church floor; and, secondly, he had overslept, missed the funeral, and arrived at St Michael and All Saints to find Mary alone in the graveyard, white-faced and furious, screaming at him that he had ruined the whole thing. ‘I'm not sure where I ought to be,' he said, looking around. ‘I've never done this before.' ‘Nothing to it, mate,' said Miles. ‘There's only one requirement, really. Don't drop anything, hehehe.' Miles' girlish laugh contrasted oddly with his deep speaking voice. Neither Gavin nor Samantha smiled. Colin Wall loomed out of the mass of bodies. Big and awkward-looking, with his high, knobbly forehead, he always made Samantha think of Frankenstein's monster. ‘Gavin,' he said. ‘There you are. I think we should probably stand out on the pavement, they'll be here in a few minutes.' ‘Right-ho,' said Gavin, relieved to be ordered around. ‘Colin,' said Miles, with a nod. ‘Yes, hello,' said Colin, flustered, before turning away and forcing his way back through the mass of mourners. Then came another small flurry of movement, and Samantha heard Howard's loud voice: ‘Excuse me †¦ so sorry †¦ trying to join our family †¦' The crowd parted to avoid his belly, and Howard was revealed, immense in a velvet-faced overcoat. Shirley and Maureen bobbed in his wake, Shirley neat and composed in navy blue, Maureen scrawny as a carrion bird, in a hat with a small black veil. ‘Hello, hello,' said Howard, kissing Samantha firmly on both cheeks. ‘And how's Sammy?' Her answer was swallowed up in a widespread, awkward shuffling, as everybody began retreating backwards off the path: there was a certain discreet jockeying for position; nobody wanted to relinquish their claim to a place near the church entrance. With this cleaving in two of the crowd, familiar individuals were revealed like separate pips along the break. Samantha spotted the Jawandas: coffee-brown faces among all the whey; Vikram, absurdly handsome in his dark suit; Parminder dressed in a sari (why did she do it? Didn't she know she was playing right into the likes of Howard and Shirley's hands?) and beside her, dumpy little Tessa Wall in a grey coat, which was straining at the buttons. Mary Fairbrother and the children were walking slowly up the path to the church. Mary was terribly pale, and appeared pounds thinner. Could she have lost so much weight in six days? She was holding one of the twins' hands, with her other arm around the shoulders of her younger son, and the eldest, Fergus, marching behind. She walked with her eyes fixed straight ahead, her soft mouth pursed tight. Other family members followed Mary and the children; the procession moved over the threshold and was swallowed up in the dingy interior of the church. Everyone else moved towards the doors at once, which resulted in an undignified jam. The Mollisons found themselves shunted together with the Jawandas. ‘After you, Mr Jawanda, sir, after you †¦' boomed Howard, holding out an arm to let the surgeon walk in first. But Howard made sure to use his bulk to prevent anybody else taking precedence over him, and followed Vikram immediately through the entrance, leaving their families to follow on. A royal-blue carpet ran the length of the aisle of St Michael and All Saints. Golden stars glimmered on the vaulted ceiling; brass plaques reflected the glow of the hanging lamps. The stained-glass windows were elaborate and gorgeously hued. Halfway down the nave, on the epistle side, St Michael himself stared down from the largest window, clad in silver armour. Sky-blue wings curved out of his shoulders; in one hand he held aloft a sword, in the other, a pair of golden scales. A sandalled foot rested on the back of a writhing bat-winged Satan, who was dark grey in colour and attempting to raise himself. The saint's expression was serene. Howard stopped level with St Michael and indicated that his party should file into the pew on the left; Vikram turned right into the opposite one. While the remaining Mollisons, and Maureen, filed past him into the pew, Howard remained planted on the royal-blue carpet, and addressed Parminder as she passed him. ‘Dreadful, this. Barry. Awful shock.' ‘Yes,' she said, loathing him. ‘I always think those frocks look comfy; are they?' he added, nodding at her sari. She did not answer, but took her place beside Jaswant. Howard sat down too, making of himself a prodigious plug at the end of the pew that would seal it off to newcomers. Shirley's eyes were fixed respectfully on her knees, and her hands were clasped, apparently in prayer, but she was really mulling over Howard and Parminder's little exchange about the sari. Shirley belonged to a section of Pagford that quietly lamented the fact that the Old Vicarage, which had been built long ago to house a High Church vicar with mutton-chop whiskers and a starched-aproned staff, was now home to a family of Hindus (Shirley had never quite grasped what religion the Jawandas were). She thought that if she and Howard went to the temple, or the mosque, or wherever it was the Jawandas worshipped, they would doubtless be required to cover their heads and remove their shoes and who knew what else, otherwise there would be outcry. Yet it was acceptable for Parminder to flaunt her sari in church. It was not as though Parminder did not have normal clothes, for she wore them to work every day. The double standard of it all was what rankled; not a thought for the disrespect it s howed to their religion, and, by extension, to Barry Fairbrother himself, of whom she was supposed to have been so fond. Shirley unclasped her hands, raised her head, and gave her attention over to the outfits of people who were passing, and of the size and number of Barry's floral tributes. Some of these had been heaped up against the communion rail. Shirley spotted the offering from the council, for which she and Howard had organized the collection. It was a large, round traditional wreath of white and blue flowers, which were the colours of Pagford's arms. Their flowers and all the other wreaths were overshadowed by the life-sized oar, made of bronze chrysanthemums, which the girls' rowing team had given. Sukhvinder turned in her pew to look for Lauren, whose florist mother had made the oar; she wanted to mime that she had seen it and liked it, but the crowd was dense and she could not spot Lauren anywhere. Sukhvinder was mournfully proud that they had done it, especially when she saw that people were pointing it out to each other as they settled themselves in their seats. Five of the eight girls on the team had stumped up money for the oar. Lauren had told Sukhvinder how she had tracked down Krystal Weedon at lunchtime, and exposed herself to the piss-taking of Krystal's friends, who were sitting smoking on a low wall by the newsagent's. Lauren had asked Krystal if she wanted to chip in. ‘Yeah, I will, all righ',' Krystal had said; but she had not, so her name was not on the card. Nor, as far as Sukhvinder could see, had Krystal come to the funeral. Sukhvinder's insides were like lead, but the ache of her left forearm coupled with the sharp twinges of pain when she moved it was a counter-irritant, and at least Fats Wall, glowering in his black suit, was nowhere near her. He had not made eye contact with her when their two families had met, briefly, in the churchyard; he was restrained by the presence of their parents, as he was sometimes restrained by the presence of Andrew Price. Late the previous evening, her anonymous cyber-torturer had sent her a black and white picture of a naked Victorian child, covered in soft dark hair. She had seen it and deleted it while dressing for the funeral. When had she last been happy? She knew that in a different life, long before anyone had grunted at her, she had sat in this church, and been quite content for years; she had sung hymns with gusto at Christmas, Easter and Harvest Festival. She had always liked St Michael, with his pretty, feminine, Pre-Raphaelite face, his curly golden hair †¦ but this morning, for the first time, she saw him differently, with his foot resting almost casually on that writhing dark devil; she found his untroubled expression sinister and arrogant. The pews were packed. Muffled clunks, echoing footsteps and quiet rustlings animated the dusty air as the unlucky ones continued to file in at the back of the church and took up standing room along the left-hand wall. Some hopeful souls tiptoed down the aisle in case of an overlooked place in the crammed pews. Howard remained immovable and firm, until Shirley tapped his shoulder and whispered, ‘Aubrey and Julia!' At which Howard turned massively, and waved the service sheet to attract the Fawleys' attention. They came briskly down the carpeted aisle: Aubrey, tall, thin and balding in his dark suit, Julia with her light-red hair pulled back into a chignon. They smiled their thanks as Howard moved along, shunting the others up, making sure that the Fawleys had plenty of room. Samantha was jammed so tightly between Miles and Maureen that she could feel Maureen's sharp hip joint pressing into her flesh on one side and the keys in Miles' pocket on the other. Furious, she attempted to secure herself a centimetre or so more room, but neither Miles nor Maureen had anywhere else to go, so she stared straight ahead, and turned her thoughts vengefully to Vikram, who had lost none of his appeal in the month or so since she had last seen him. He was so conspicuously, irrefutably good-looking, it was silly; it made you want to laugh. With his long legs and his broad shoulders, and the flatness of his belly where his shirt tucked into his trousers, and those dark eyes with the thick black lashes, he looked like a god compared to other Pagford men, who were so slack and pallid and porky. As Miles leaned forward to exchange whispered pleasantries with Julia Fawley, his keys ground painfully into Samantha's upper thigh, and she imagined Vikram ripping open the navy wrap dress she was wearing, and in her fantasy she had omitted to put on the matching camisole that concealed her deep canyon of cleavage †¦ The organ stops creaked and silence fell, except for a soft persistent rustle. Heads turned: the coffin was coming up the aisle. The pall-bearers were almost comically mismatched: Barry's brothers were both five foot six, and Colin Wall, at the rear, six foot two, so that the back end of the coffin was considerably higher than the front. The coffin itself was not made of polished mahogany, but of wickerwork. It's a bloody picnic basket! thought Howard, outraged. Looks of surprise flitted across many faces as the willow box passed them, but some had known all about the coffin in advance. Mary had told Tessa (who had told Parminder) how the choice of material had been made by Fergus, Barry's eldest son, who wanted willow because it was a sustainable, quick-growing material and therefore environmentally friendly. Fergus was a passionate enthusiast for all things green and ecologically sound. Parminder liked the willow coffin better, much better, than the stout wooden box in which most English disposed of their dead. Her grandmother had always had a superstitious fear of the soul being trapped inside something heavy and solid, deploring the way that British undertakers nailed down the lids. The pall-bearers lowered the coffin onto the brocade-draped bier and retreated: Barry's son, brothers and brother-in-law edged into the front pews, and Colin walked jerkily back to join his family. For two quaking seconds Gavin hesitated. Parminder could tell that he was unsure of where to go, his only option to walk back down the aisle under the eyes of three hundred people. But Mary must have made a sign to him, because he ducked, blushing furiously, into the front pew beside Barry's mother. Parminder had only ever spoken to Gavin when she had tested and treated him for chlamydia. He had never met her gaze again. ‘I am the resurrection and the life, saith the Lord; he that believeth in me, though he were dead, yet shall he live: and whosoever liveth and believeth in me shall never die †¦' The vicar did not sound as if he were thinking about the sense of the words issuing from his mouth, but only about his own delivery, which was sing-song and rhythmic. Parminder was familiar with his style; she had attended carol services for years with all the other St Thomas's parents. Long acquaintance had not reconciled her to the white-faced warrior saint staring down at her, nor all the dark wood, the hard pews, the alien altar with its jewelled golden cross, nor the dirgey hymns, which she found chilly and unsettling. So she withdrew her attention from the self-conscious drone of the vicar and thought again of her father. She had seen him out of the kitchen window, flat on his face, while her radio continued to blare from on top of the rabbit hutch. He had been lying there for two hours while she, her mother and her sisters had been browsing in Topshop. She could still feel her father's shoulder beneath his hot shirt as she had shaken it. ‘Dadiii. Dadiiiii.' They had scattered Darshan's ashes in the sad little River Rea in Birmingham. Parminder could remember the dull clay look of its surface, on an overcast day in June, and the stream of tiny white and grey flakes floating away from her. The organ clunked and wheezed into life, and she got to her feet with everybody else. She caught a glimpse of the backs of Niamh and Siobhan's red-gold heads; they were exactly the age she had been when Darshan had been taken from them. Parminder experienced a rush of tenderness, and an awful ache, and a confused desire to hold them and to tell them that she knew, she knew, she understood †¦ Morning has broken, like the first morning †¦ Gavin could hear a shrill treble from along the row: Barry's younger son's voice had not yet broken. He knew that Declan had chosen the hymn. That was another of the ghastly details of the service that Mary had chosen to share with him. He was finding the funeral an even worse ordeal than he had expected. He thought it might have been better with a wooden coffin; he had had an awful, visceral awareness of Barry's body inside that light wickerwork case; the physical weight of him was shocking. All those complacently staring people, as he walked up the aisle; did they not understand what he was actually carrying? Then had come the ghastly moment when he had realized that nobody had saved him a place, and that he would have to walk all the way back again while everybody stared, and hide among the standees at the back †¦ but instead he had been forced to sit in the first pew, horribly exposed. It was like being in the front seat of a rollercoaster, bearing the brunt of every awful twist and lurch. Sitting there, mere feet from Siobhan's sunflower, its head as big as a saucepan lid, in the middle of a big burst of yellow freesias and daylilies, he actually wished that Kay had come with him; he could not believe it, but there it was. He would have been consoled by the presence of somebody who was on his side; somebody simply to keep him a seat. He had not considered what a sad bastard he might look, turning up alone. The hymn ended. Barry's older brother walked to the front to speak. Gavin did not know how he could bear to do it, with Barry's corpse lying right in front of him beneath the sunflower (grown from seed, over months); nor how Mary could sit so quietly, with her head bowed, apparently looking at the hands clasped in her lap. Gavin tried, actively, to provide his own interior interference, so as to dilute the impact of the eulogy. He's going to tell the story about Barry meeting Mary, once he's got past this kid stuff †¦ happy childhood, high jinks, yeah, yeah †¦ Come on, move it along †¦ They would have to put Barry back in the car, and drive all the way to Yarvil to bury him in the cemetery there, because the tiny graveyard of St Michael and All Saints had been declared full twenty years previously. Gavin imagined lowering the wickerwork coffin into the grave under the eyes of this crowd. Carrying it in and out of the church would be nothing compared to that †¦ One of the twins was crying. Out of the corner of his eye, Gavin saw Mary reach out a hand to hold her daughter's. Let's get on with it, for fuck's sake. Please. ‘I think it's fair to say that Barry always knew his own mind,' Barry's brother was saying hoarsely. He had got a few laughs with tales of Barry's scrapes in childhood. The strain in his voice was palpable. ‘He was twenty-four when we went off on my stag weekend to Liverpool. First night there, we leave the campsite and go off to the pub, and there behind the bar is the landlord's student daughter, a beautiful blonde, helping out on a Saturday night. Barry spent the whole night propping up the bar, chatting her up, getting her into trouble with her dad and pretending he didn't know who the rowdy lot in the corner were.' A weak laugh. Mary's head was drooping; both hands were clutching those of the child on either side. ‘He told me that night, back in the tent, that he was going to marry her. I thought, Hang on, I'm the one who's supposed to be drunk.' Another little titter. ‘Baz made us go back to the same pub the next night. When we got home, the first thing he did was buy her a postcard and send it to her, telling her he'd be back next weekend. They were married a year to the day after they met, and I think everyone who knew them would agree that Barry knew a good thing when he saw it. They went on to have four beautiful children, Fergus, Niamh, Siobhan and Declan †¦' Gavin breathed carefully in and out, in and out, trying not to listen, and wondering what on earth his own brother would find to say about him under the same circumstances. He had not had Barry's luck; his romantic life did not make a pretty story. He had never walked into a pub and found the perfect wife standing there, blonde, smiling and ready to serve him a pint. No, he had had Lisa, who had never seemed to think him up to scratch; seven years of escalating warfare had culminated in a dose of the clap; and then, with barely a break, there had been Kay, clinging to him like an aggressive and threatening barnacle †¦ But, all the same, he would ring her later, because he didn't think he would be able to stand going back to his empty cottage after this. He would be honest, and tell her how horrible and stressful the funeral had been, and that he wished she had come with him. That would surely deflect any lingering umbrage about their row. He did not want to be alone tonight. Two pews back, Colin Wall was sobbing, with small but audible gasps, into a large, wet handkerchief. Tessa's hand rested on his thigh, exerting gentle pressure. She was thinking about Barry; about how she had relied upon him to help her with Colin; of the consolation of shared laughter; of Barry's boundless generosity of spirit. She could see him clearly, short and ruddy, jiving with Parminder at their last party; imitating Howard Mollison's strictures on the Fields; advising Colin tactfully, as only he could have done, to accept Fats' behaviour as adolescent, rather than sociopathic. Tessa was scared of what the loss of Barry Fairbrother would mean to the man beside her; scared of how they would manage to accommodate this huge ragged absence; scared that Colin had made a vow to the dead that he could not keep, and that he did not realize how little Mary, to whom he kept wanting to talk, liked him. And through all Tessa's anxiety and sorrow was threaded the usual worry, like an itchy little worm: Fats, and how she was going to avert an explosion, how she would make him come with them to the burial, or how she might hide from Colin that he had not come – which might, after all, be easier. ‘We are going to finish today's service with a song chosen by Barry's daughters, Niamh and Siobhan, which meant a lot to them and their father,' said the vicar. He managed, by his tone, to disassociate himself personally from what was about to happen. The beat of the drum rang so loudly through hidden speakers that the congregation jumped. A loud American voice was saying ‘uh huh, uh huh' and Jay-Z rapped: Good girl gone bad – Take three – Action. No clouds in my storms †¦ Let it rain, I hydroplane into fame Comin' down with the Dow Jones †¦ Some people thought that it was a mistake: Howard and Shirley threw outraged glances at each other, but nobody pressed stop, or ran up the aisle apologizing. Then a powerful, sexy female voice started to sing: You had my heart And we'll never be worlds apart Maybe in magazines But you'll still be my star †¦ The pall-bearers were carrying the wicker coffin back down the aisle, and Mary and the children were following. †¦ Now that it's raining more than ever Know that we'll still have each other You can stand under my umbuh-rella You can stand under my umbuh-rella The congregation filed slowly out of the church, trying not to walk in time to the beat of the song. II Andrew Price took the handlebars of his father's racing bicycle and walked it carefully out of the garage, making sure that he did not scrape the car. Down the stone steps and through the metal gate he carried it; then, in the lane, he put his foot on one pedal, scooted a few yards and swung his other leg over the saddle. He soared left onto the vertiginously sloping hillside road and sped, without touching his brakes, down towards Pagford. The hedgerows and sky blurred; he imagined himself in a velodrome as the wind whipped his clean hair and his stinging face, which he had just scrubbed clean. Level with the Fairbrothers' wedge-shaped garden he applied the brakes, because some months previously he had taken this sharp turn too fast and fallen off, and had had to return home immediately with his jeans ripped open and grazes all down one side of his face †¦ He freewheeled, with only one hand on the bars, into Church Row, and enjoyed a second, though lesser, downhill burst of speed, slightly checked when he saw that they were loading a coffin onto a hearse outside the church, and that a dark-clothed crowd was spilling out between the heavy wooden doors. Andrew pedalled furiously around the corner and out of sight. He did not want to see Fats emerging from church with a distraught Cubby, wearing the cheap suit and tie that he had described with comical disgust during yesterday's English lesson. It would have been like interrupting his friend having a crap. As Andrew cycled slowly around the Square, he slicked his hair back off his face with one hand, wondering what the cold air had done to his purple-red acne and whether the anti-bacterial face wash had done anything to soothe the angry look of it. And he told himself the cover story: he had come from Fats' house (which he might have done, there was no reason why not), which meant that Hope Street was as obvious a route down to the river as cutting through the first side street. Therefore there was no need for Gaia Bawden (if she happened to be looking out of the window of her house, and happened to see him, and happened to recognize him) to think that he had come this way because of her. Andrew did not anticipate having to explain to her his reason for cycling up her street, but he still held the fake story in his mind, because he believed it gave him an air of cool detachment. He simply wanted to know which was her house. Twice already, at weekends, he had cycled along the short terraced street, every nerve in his body tingling, but he had been unable, as yet, to discover which house harboured the Grail. All he knew, from his furtive glimpses through the dirty school-bus windows, was that she lived on the right hand even-numbered side. As he turned the corner, he tried to compose his features, acting the part of a man cycling slowly towards the river by the most direct route, lost in his own serious thoughts, but ready to acknowledge a classmate, should they show themselves †¦ She was there. On the pavement. Andrew's legs continued to pump, though he could not feel the pedals, and he was suddenly aware how thin the tyres were on which he balanced. She was rummaging in her leather handbag, her copper-brown hair hanging around her face. Number ten on the door ajar behind her, and a black T-shirt falling short of her waist; a band of bare skin, and a heavy belt and tight jeans †¦ when he was almost past her, she closed the door and turned; her hair fell back from her beautiful face, and she said, quite clearly, in her London voice, ‘Oh, hi.' ‘Hi,' he said. His legs kept pedalling. Six feet away, twelve feet away; why hadn't he stopped? Shock kept him moving, he dared not look back; he was at the end of her street already; for fuck's sake don't fall off; he turned the corner, too stunned to gauge whether he was more relieved or disappointed that he had left her behind. Holy shit. He cycled on towards the wooded area at the base of Pargetter Hill, where the river glinted intermittently through the trees, but he could see nothing except Gaia burned onto his retina like neon. The narrow road turned into an earthy footpath, and the gentle breeze off the water caressed his face, which he did not think had turned red, because it had all happened so quickly. ‘Fucking hell!' he said aloud to the fresh air and the deserted path. He raked excitedly through this magnificent, unexpected treasure trove: her perfect body, revealed in tight denim and stretchy cotton; number ten behind her, on a chipped, shabby blue door; ‘oh, hi', easily and naturally – so his features were definitely logged somewhere in the mind that lived behind the astonishing face. The bike jolted on the newly pebbly and rough ground. Elated, Andrew dismounted only when he began to overbalance. He wheeled the bicycle on through the trees, emerging onto the narrow riverbank, where he slung the bicycle down on the ground among the wood anemones that had opened like tiny white stars since his last visit. His father had said, when he first started to borrow the bike: ‘You chain it up if you're going in a shop. I'm warning you, if that gets nicked †¦' But the chain was not long enough to go around any of the trees and, in any case, the further he rode from his father the less Andrew feared him. Still thinking about the inches of flat, bare midriff and Gaia's exquisite face, Andrew strode to the place where the bank met the eroded side of the hill, which hung like an earthy, rocky cliff in a sheer face above the fast-flowing green water. The narrowest lip of slippery, crumbling bank ran along the bottom of the hillside. The only way of navigating it, if your feet had grown to be twice the length they had been when they had first made the trip, was to edge along sideways, pressed to the sheer face, holding tight to roots and bits of protruding rock. The mulchy green smell of the river and of wet soil was deeply familiar to Andrew, as was the sensation of this narrow ledge of earth and grass under his feet, and the cracks and rocks he sought with his hands on the hillside. He and Fats had found the secret place when they were eleven years old. They had known that what they were doing was forbidden and dangerous; they had been warned about the river. Terrified, but determined not to tell each other so, they had sidled along this tricky ledge, grabbing at anything that protruded from the rocky wall and, at the very narrowest point, clutching fistfuls of each other's T-shirts. Years of practice enabled Andrew, though his mind was barely on the job, to move crab-wise along the solid wall of earth and rock with the water gushing three feet beneath his trainers; then with a deft duck and swing, he was inside the fissure in the hillside that they had found so long ago. Back then, it had seemed like a divine reward for their daring. He could no longer stand up in it; but, slightly larger than a two-man tent, it was big enough for two teenage boys to lie, side by side, with the river rushing past and the trees dappling their view of the sky, framed by the triangular entrance. The first time they had been here, they had poked and dug at the back wall with sticks, but they had not found a secret passageway leading to the abbey above; so they gloried instead in the fact that they alone had discovered the hiding place, and swore that it would be their secret in perpetuity. Andrew had a vague memory of a solemn oath, spit and swearwords. They had called it the Cave when they had first discovered it, but it was now, and had been for some time past, the Cubby Hole. The little recess smelt earthy, though the sloping ceiling was made of rock. A dark green tidemark showed that it had flooded in the past, not quite to the roof. The floor was covered in their cigarette butts and cardboard roaches. Andrew sat down, with his legs dangling over the sludge-green water, and pulled his cigarettes and lighter out of his jacket, bought with the last of his birthday money, now that his allowance had been stopped. He lit up, inhaled deeply, and relived the glorious encounter with Gaia Bawden in as much detail as he could ring out of it: narrow waist and curving hips; creamy skin between leather and T-shirt; full, wide mouth; ‘oh, hi'. It was the first time he had seen her out of school uniform. Where was she going, alone with her leather handbag? What was there in Pagford for her to do on a Saturday morning? Was she perhaps catching the bus into Yarvil? What did she get up to when she was out of his sight; what feminine mysteries absorbed her? And he asked himself for the umpteenth time whether it was conceivable that flesh and bone wrought like that could contain a banal personality. It was only Gaia who had ever made him wonder this: the idea of body and soul as separate entities had never once occurred to him until he had clapped eyes on her. Even while trying to imagine what her breasts would look and feel like, judged by the visual evidence he had managed to gather through a slightly translucent school shirt, and what he knew was a white bra, he could not believe that the allure she held for him was exclusively physical. She had a way of moving that moved him as much as music, which was what moved him most of all. Surely the spirit animating that peerless body must be unusual too? Why would nature make a vessel like that, if not to contain something still more valuable? Andrew knew what naked women looked like, because there were no parental controls on the computer in Fats' conversion bedroom. Together they had explored as much online porn as they could access for free: shaven vulvas; pink labia pulled wide to show darkly gaping slits; spread buttocks revealing the puckered buttons of anuses; thickly lipsticked mouths, dripping semen. Andrew's excitement was underpinned, always, by the panicky awareness that you could only hear Mrs Wall approaching the room when she reached the creaking halfway stair. Sometimes they found weirdness that made them roar with laughter, even when Andrew was unsure whether he was more excited or repulsed (whips and saddles, harnesses, ropes, hoses; and once, at which even Fats had not managed to laugh, close-ups of metal-bolted contraptions, and needles protruding from soft flesh, and women's faces frozen, screaming). Together he and Fats had become connoisseurs of silicone-enhanced breasts, enormous, taut and round. ‘Plastic,' one of them would point out, matter of factly, as they sat in front of the monitor with the door wedged shut against Fats' parents. The on-screen blonde's arms were raised as she sat astride some hairy man, her big brown-nippled breasts hanging off her narrow rib cage like bowling balls, thin, shiny purple lines under each of them showing where the silicone had been inserted. You could almost tell how they would feel, looking at them: firm, as if there were a football underneath the skin. Andrew could imagine nothing more erotic than a natural breast; soft and spongy and perhaps a little springy, and the nipples (he hoped) contrastingly hard. And all of these images blurred in his mind, late at night, with the possibilities offered by real girls, human girls, and the little you managed to feel through clothes if you managed to move in close enough. Niamh was the less pretty of the Fairbrother twins, but she had been the more willing, in the stuffy drama hall, during the Christmas disco. Half hidden by the musty stage curtain in a dark corner, they had pressed against each other, and Andrew had put his tongue into her mouth. His hands had inched as far as her bra strap and no further, because she kept pulling away. He had been driven, chiefly, by the knowledge that somewhere outside in the darkness, Fats was going further. And now his brain teemed and throbbed with Gaia. She was both the sexiest girl he had ever seen and the source of another, entirely inexplicable yearning. Certain chord changes, certain beats, made the very core of him shiver, and so did something about Gaia Bawden. He lit a new cigarette from the end of the first and threw the butt into the water below. Then he heard a familiar scuffling, and leaned forward to see Fats, still wearing his funeral suit, spread-eagled on the hill wall, moving from hand-hold to hand-hold as he edged along the narrow lip of bank, towards the opening where Andrew sat. ‘Fats.' ‘Arf.' Andrew pulled in his legs to give Fats room to climb into the Cubby Hole. ‘Fucking hell,' said Fats, when he had clambered inside. He was spider-like in his awkwardness, with his long limbs, his skinniness emphasized by the black suit. Andrew handed him a cigarette. Fats always lit up as though he were in a high wind, one hand cupped around the flame to shield it, scowling slightly. He inhaled, blew a smoke ring out of the Cubby Hole and loosened the dark grey tie around his neck. He appeared older and not, after all, so very foolish in the suit, which bore traces of earth on the knees and cuffs from the journey to the cave. ‘You'd think they were bum chums,' Fats said, after he had taken another powerful drag on his cigarette. ‘Cubby upset, was he?' ‘Upset? He's having fucking hysterics. He's given himself hiccups. He's worse than the fucking widow.' Andrew laughed. Fats blew another smoke ring and pulled at one of his overlarge ears. ‘I bowed out early. They haven't even buried him yet.' They smoked in silence for a minute, both looking out at the sludgy river. As he smoked, Andrew contemplated the words ‘bowed out early', and the amount of autonomy Fats seemed to have, compared to himself. Simon and his fury stood between Andrew and too much freedom: in Hilltop House, you sometimes copped for punishment simply because you were present. Andrew's imagination had once been caught by a strange little module in their philosophy and religion class, in which primitive gods had been discussed in all their arbitrary wrath and violence, and the attempts of early civilizations to placate them. He had thought then of the nature of justice as he had come to know it: of his father as a pagan god, and of his mother as the high priestess of the cult, who attempted to interpret and intercede, usually failing, yet still insisting, in the face of all the evidence, that there was an underlying magnanimity and reasonableness to her deity. Fats rested his head against the stone side of the Cubby Hole and blew smoke rings at the ceiling. He was thinking about what he wanted to tell Andrew. He had been mentally rehearsing the way he would start, all through the funeral service, while his father gulped and sobbed into his handkerchief. Fats was so excited by the prospect of telling, that he was having difficulty containing himself; but he was determined not to blurt it out. The telling of it was, to Fats, of almost equal importance to the doing of it. He did not want Andrew to think that he had hurried here to say it. ‘You know how Fairbrother was on the Parish Council?' said Andrew. ‘Yeah,' said Fats, glad that Andrew had initiated a space-filler conversation. ‘Si-Pie's saying he's going to stand for his seat.' ‘Si-Pie is?' Fats frowned at Andrew. ‘What the fuck's got into him?' ‘He reckons Fairbrother was getting backhanders from some contractor.' Andrew had heard Simon discussing it with Ruth in the kitchen that morning. It had explained everything. ‘He wants a bit of the action.' ‘That wasn't Barry Fairbrother,' said Fats, laughing as he flicked ash onto the cave floor. ‘And that wasn't the Parish Council. That was What's-his-name Frierly, up in Yarvil. He was on the school board at Winterdown. Cubby had a fucking fit. Local press calling him for a comment and all that. Frierly got done for it. Doesn't Si-Pie read the Yarvil and District Gazette?' Andrew stared at Fats. ‘Fucking typical.' He ground out his cigarette on the earthy floor, embarrassed by his father's idiocy. Simon had got the wrong end of the stick yet again. He spurned the local community, sneered at their concerns, was proud of his isolation in his poxy little house on the hill; then he got a bit of misinformation and decided to expose his family to humiliation on the basis of it. ‘Crooked as fuck, Si-Pie, isn't he?' said Fats. They called him Si-Pie because that was Ruth's nickname for her husband. Fats had heard her use it once, when he had been over for his tea, and had never called Simon anything else since. ‘Yeah, he is,' said Andrew, wondering whether he would be able to dissuade his father from standing by telling him he had the wrong man and the wrong council. ‘Bit of a coincidence,' said Fats, ‘because Cubby's standing as well.' Fats exhaled through his nostrils, staring at the crevice wall over Andrew's head. ‘So will voters go for the cunt,' he said, ‘or the twat?' Andrew laughed. There was little he enjoyed more than hearing his father called a cunt by Fats. ‘Now have a shifty at this,' said Fats, jamming his cigarette between his lips and patting his hips, even though he knew that the envelope was in the inside breast pocket. ‘Here you go,' he said, pulling it out and opening it to show Andrew the contents: brown peppercorn-sized pods in a powdery mix of shrivelled stalks and leaves. ‘Sensimilla, that is.' ‘What is it?' ‘Tips and shoots of your basic unfertilized marijuana plant,' said Fats, ‘specially prepared for your smoking pleasure.' ‘What's the difference between that and the normal stuff?' asked Andrew, with whom Fats had split several lumps of waxy black cannabis resin in the Cubby Hole. ‘Just a different smoke, isn't it?' said Fats, stubbing out his own cigarette. He took a packet of Rizlas from his pocket, drew out three of the fragile papers and gummed them together. ‘Did you get it off Kirby?' asked Andrew, poking at and sniffing the contents of the envelope. Everyone knew Skye Kirby was the go-to man for drugs. He was a year above them, in the lower sixth. His grandfather was an old hippy, who had been up in court several times for growing his own. ‘Yeah. Mind, there's a bloke called Obbo,' said Fats, slitting cigarettes and emptying the tobacco onto the papers, ‘in the Fields, who'll get you anything. Fucking smack, if you want it.' ‘You don't want smack, though,' said Andrew, watching Fats' face. ‘Nah,' said Fats, taking the envelope back, and sprinkling the sensimilla onto the tobacco. He rolled the joint together, licking the end of the papers to seal it, poking the roach in more neatly, twisting the end into a point. ‘Nice,' he said happily. He had planned to tell Andrew his news after introducing the sensimilla as a kind of warm-up act. He held out his hand for Andrew's lighter, inserted the cardboarded end between his own lips and lit up, taking a deep, contemplative drag, blowing out the smoke in a long blue jet, then repeating the process. ‘Mmm,' he said, holding the smoke in his lungs, and imitating Cubby, whom Tessa had given a wine course one Christmas. ‘Herby. A strong aftertaste. Overtones of †¦ fuck †¦' He experienced a massive headrush, even though he was sitting, and exhaled, laughing. ‘†¦ try that.' Andrew leaned across and took the joint, giggling in anticipation, and at the beatific smile on Fats' face, which was quite at odds with his usual constipated scowl. Andrew inhaled and felt the power of the drug radiate out from his lungs, unwinding and loosening him. Another drag, and he thought that it was like having your mind shaken out like a duvet, so that it resettled without creases, so that everything became smooth and simple and easy and good. ‘Nice,' he echoed Fats, smiling at the sound of his own voice. He passed the joint back into Fat's waiting fingers and savoured this sense of well-being. ‘So, you wanna hear something interesting?' said Fats, grinning uncontrollably. ‘Go on.' ‘I fucked her last night.' Andrew nearly said ‘who?', before his befuddled brain remembered: Krystal Weedon, of course; Krystal Weedon, who else? ‘Where?' he asked, stupidly. It was not what he wanted to know. Fats stretched out on his back in his funeral suit, his feet towards the river. Wordlessly, Andrew stretched out beside him, in the opposite direction. They had slept like this, ‘top and tail', when they had stayed overnight at each other's houses as children. Andrew gazed up at the rocky ceiling, where the blue smoke hung, slowly furling, and waited to hear everything. ‘I told Cubby and Tess I was at yours, so you know,' said Fats. He passed the joint into Andrew's reaching fingers, then linked his long hands on his chest, and listened to himself telling. ‘Then I got the bus to the Fields. Met her outside Oddbins.' ‘By Tesco's?' asked Andrew. He did not know why he kept asking dumb questions. ‘Yeah,' said Fats. ‘We went to the rec. There's trees in the corner behind the public bogs. Nice and private. It was getting dark.' Fats shifted position and Andrew handed back the joint. ‘Getting in's harder than I thought it would be,' said Fats, and Andrew was mesmerized, half inclined to laugh, afraid of missing every unvarnished detail Fats could give him. ‘She was wetter when I was fingering her.' A giggle rose like trapped gas in Andrew's chest, but was stifled there. ‘Lot of pushing to get in properly. It's tighter than I thought.' Andrew saw a jet of smoke rise from the place where Fats' head must be. ‘I came in about ten seconds. It feels fucking great once you're in.' Andrew fought back laughter, in case there was more. ‘I wore a johnny. It'd be better without.' He pushed the joint back into Andrew's hand. Andrew pulled on it, thinking. Harder to get in than you thought; over in ten seconds. It didn't sound much; yet what wouldn't he give? He imagined Gaia Bawden flat on her back for him and, without meaning to, let out a small groan, which Fats did not seem to hear. Lost in a fug of erotic images, pulling on the joint, Andrew lay with his erection on the patch of earth his body was warming and listened to the soft rush of the water a few feet from his head. ‘What matters, Arf?' asked Fats, after a long, dreamy pause. His head swimming pleasantly, Andrew answered, ‘Sex.' ‘Yeah,' said Fats, delighted. ‘Fucking. That's what matters. Propogun †¦ propogating the species. Throw away the johnnies. Multiply.' ‘Yeah,' said Andrew, laughing. ‘And death,' said Fats. He had been taken aback by the reality of that coffin, and how little material lay between all the watching vultures and an actual corpse. He was not sorry that he had left before it disappeared into the ground. ‘Gotta be, hasn't it? Death.' ‘Yeah,' said Andrew, thinking of war and car crashes, and dying in blazes of speed and glory. ‘Yeah,' said Fats. ‘Fucking and dying. That's it, innit? Fucking and dying. That's life.' ‘Trying to get a fuck and trying not to die.' ‘Or trying to die,' said Fats. ‘Some people. Risking it.' ‘Yeah. Risking it.' There was more silence, and their hiding place was cool and hazy. ‘And music,' said Andrew quietly, watching the blue smoke hanging beneath the dark rock. ‘Yeah,' said Fats, in the distance. ‘And music.' The river rushed on past the Cubby Hole.

The Search for Sustainable Fibre/Fabric Alternatives

THE SEARCH FOR SUSTAINABLE FIBRE/FABRIC ALTERNATIVES TEXTILE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT & ENGINEERING (MANU 2091) Abstract: An attempt to find two alternatives for cotton and nylon respectively that is sustainable within the scope of the chosen apparel BY PRIYA PISHU HASSARAM S3351376 LECTURER: CHRIS WATSON 05TH SEPTEMBER 2012 MINOR ASSESSMENT REPORT EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This paper delves in to the performance characteristics of fibres within chosen apparel and the sustainable replacements for these fibres.In particular, the document explores various questions relating to the subject including: (1) what are the performance characteristics for each fibre in general and chosen apparel? , (2) how is it suitable as an alternative to the fibre? , (3) In what ways are the performance characteristics of fibre’s different from each other? Today, we can look at the textile industry through the lens of sustainability. At present, the textiles industry is one of the highest in contributing towards landfill. The two most commonly used textiles fibre’s; cotton and nylon both causes serious environmental problems in their life cycle.Therefore, the report focuses on the aspect of sustainability within the fibre as replacements for cotton and nylon within the chosen apparel. The work is divided into two parts, Part A addresses cotton and Part B addresses nylon. In specific a women’s underwear is the chosen apparel for cotton and the two possible replacements for that product are banana fibre and hemp. The replacement fibres are more comfortable, have better breathability, moisture absorbency, much lower in cost and 100% biodegradable in comparison to cotton which is essential performance characteristics needed for women’s underwear being a sensitive piece of apparel.However, for nylon, the apparel used is an outdoor men’s jacket. The sustainable alternatives for nylon are tencel and aerogel. The replacement fibres are chosen because they are biodegrada ble, have a good level of strength, abrasion resistant and high in insulation properties; all requirements for an outdoor jacket. The textile industry should adopt a responsible attitude towards the environment and natural resources. Therefore, further development in sustainable production especially with fibres is highly recommended. These suggested replacements should be taken into consideration when producing apparel in the future.Support from all parts of the textile industry is needed to build an eco-friendly and sustainable world. Table of Contents INTRODUCTION †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 1 PART A – NATURAL FIBRE (COTTON) †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â ‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 2 Cotton History/Background †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 2 Cotton structure and characteristics †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. Properties †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 3 Advantages †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 4 Disadvantages †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 4 Unique to Cotton †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 6 Women’s Underwear †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 6 Cotton’s role in the chosen apparel – Women’s Underwear †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 7 REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR COTTON IN WOMEN’S UNDERWEAR †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 7 Banana Fibre †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. Banana fibre â₠¬â€œ alternative for cotton in women’s underwear †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 11 Hemp †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 13 Hemp – alternative for cotton in women’s underwear †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 15 COMPARISON BETWEEN BANANA FIBRE AND HEMP WITH COTTON †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 16 PART B – MANMADE FIBRE (NYLON) †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚ ¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 7 Nylon Structure & Characteristics †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 17 Properties †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 17 Advantages †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 18 Disadvantages †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢ € ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 9 Unique to Nylon †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 19 CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 20 Outdoor Jacket †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 20 REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR NYLON IN MEN’S OUTDOOR JACKET †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 21 Tencel †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 2 Tencel – alternative for nylon in Men’s Outdoor Jacket†¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 23 Aerogel †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â ‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 24 Aerogels – alternative for nylon in Men’s Outdoor Jacket †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 25 COMPARISON BETWEEN TENCEL FIBRE AND AEROGEL WITH NYLON †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 26 CONCLUSION †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 7 RECOMMENDATIONS †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦. 28 REFERENCES †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦ 29 Books & Journals †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 29 Websites †¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦Ã¢â‚¬ ¦.. 31 INTRODUCTIONWith increasing concerns regarding the effect the textile industry is having on the environment, more and more textile researchers, producers and manufacturers are looking to biodegradable and sustainable fibres as an effective way of reducing the harm disposed textiles have on the environment. (Blackburn,2009) Therefore, the purpose of this work is to explore sustainability issues in fashion and textiles. It identifies the performance characteristics and discusses this from the perspective of the sustainable fibre or fabric alternatives for two major textiles in apparel; cotton and nylon.The study will be carried out in two parts. Part A will discuss the sustainable alternatives for cotton and Part B will discuss the sustainable alternatives for nylon. An apparel is chosen for each fibre respectively. For the cotton fibre, the apparel chosen is women’s underwear and for the nylon fibre the apparel chosen is outdoor men’s jacket. The replacement fibre’s that will be discussed are banana fibre and hemp for cotton while tencel and aerogel as an alternative to nylon. In addition, a detailed analysis of the performance characteristics will be done for eac h replacement fibres.Following to this, a comparison of the two replacement fibres against cotton and polyester will be done bearing in mind the environmental considerations. While this report is about specific types of apparel, it is relevant to anyone who is interested in taking action and cultivating change towards sustainability. The aim is to show that there are options of different ways in which we can go about building long lasting environmental and social quality through the use of more sustainable fibres. 1|PagePART A – NATURAL FIBRE (COTTON) Cotton History/Background Cotton is the most prevalent fiber in the world that has helped shape the history of the world by clothing and protecting countless civilizations and adventurers from the effects of nature. According to a recent article in textile world, cotton claims a 36-percent share of the textile fibers market (Textileworld, 2011). Cotton is grown in more than 100 countries in the world and valued at some $30 billi on US dollars (Anandjiwala, 2007).Cotton requires a sunny environment with moderate rainfall and little frost making the potential of growth in developing countries India, China, Pakistan as well as developed countries such as United States (Anandjiwala, 2007). Cotton is a natural cellulosic fiber, comes from a renewable resource, and is intrinsically biodegradable. Therefore, many consumers believe it is an environmentally responsible product (Chen & Burns, 2006). Renowned for its breathability, comfort, absorbent qualities, strength and versatility, which make it the fiber of choice for numerous apparel articles plus bed sheets, towels and a range of other textile products.This quality also enables cotton fabric to be dyed easily, making it a natural choice for designers. Cotton fabric is available in a plentitude of varieties, such as supremely soft and luxurious Sea Island and Pima cotton, rugged and durable corduroy, industrial strength canvas, light voile and organdy, as well as lustrous sateen and velvet. 2|Page Cotton fabric is also a hugely popular choice for undergarments: it naturally wicks away moisture while retaining breathability. Cotton does not require the maintenance like silk or other fabrics: it does not need to be dry-cleaned and will not be ruined in a rainstorm.However, because the cotton fibers are so porous, shrinkage of the material is a possibility. Cotton structure and characteristics Cotton is a natural cellulosic fibre, meaning that it is vegetable based. Of the vegetable based fibres, cotton can be sub-categorized as a seed-based fibre. This is because cotton fibres grow as hairs on the seed of the cotton plant, Gossypium (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). The fibre is a single plant cell and the structure of the cell is complex (Hatch, 1993). The pod in which the fibres grow is known as a boll.When it reaches maturity (about the size of a walnut), it is harvested and processed. Cotton has a hard and stiff handle. Properties Cotton is cons idered a medium-strength fibre and becomes up to 30% stronger when wet (Kadolph, 2007). Cotton has low elasticity with an elongation capacity of 3% (Kadolph, 2007) Cotton has good moisture absorbency, with natural moisture content of 7% and 21% absorption before dampness can be felt (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). This means that static build-up is low (Kadolph, 2007). A high level of heat conductivity in cotton allows heat to be drawn away from the fibres (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).Cotton has good resistance to sunlight. Any garment fading is usually due to the quality of the dyestuff and not the cotton fibre (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Cotton is highly resistant to alkalis, though conversely, considerably weakened by acids, particularly strong, inorganic acids (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Organic solvents have no harmful effect (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). 3|Page Advantages Due to its increased strength when wet, it withstands tearing or ripping during laundering (Humphries, 2009) and other ro ugh handling.Because of its inelastic nature, cotton articles should retain their shape (Gore & Vilensky, 2003). High moisture absorbency makes it suitable for use in hot and humid climates. The moisture passes freely through the fabric, aiding evaporation and cooling, making it highly comfortable (Kadolph, 2007). High heat conductivity allows wearers to feel cool in warm weather. It also allows for easy ironing with a hot iron. It is easily sterilised with steam, which has little effect on the fibre (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Due to high sunlight resistance, cotton items can be easily dried in the sun.Because of its high resistance to alkalis, cotton can be easily washed due to the alkaline nature of soaps and detergents (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Disadvantages Low elongation capacity and elastic recovery means that if over-stretched, fibres may not fully recover (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009), causing them to go ‘baggy’ (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It can only recover 75% fr om a 2-5% stretch (Kadolph, 2007). Low resiliency also adds to the wrinkling and creasing nature of cotton garments. A weak internal force within the fibres means creates an inability to pull molecular chains back into original positions (Kadolph, 2007) after pressure.High moisture absorbency causes cotton to be slow-drying. Cotton oxidises in sunlight, causing whites and pastel colours to turn yellow (Kadolph, 2007). Extended exposure in the sun can weaken and deteriorate fabrics (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). Some cotton articles can be susceptible to shrinkage during washing. The agitation of the laundering process causes the fibres to pack in more closely together. Because this is an irreversible process, pre-shrunk fabrics can be bought and used for cotton products (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). 4|PageIn damp, warm and dark conditions, cotton can be prone to biological attack by mould and bacteria. This causes the fibres to weaken and can be destroyed by rotting. If caught early, i t can be removed easily by laundering, though stains may persist (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). They may also be attacked by silverfish, particularly if they are heavily starched (Collier, Bide & Tortora, 2009). Unique to Cotton Cotton can undergo a chemical finish called mercerization, where sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or liquid ammonia (NH3) is used to treat the fibre.This causes a permanent physical change in which the fibres swell, changing its cross-section from kidney-shaped to a rounder, more circular one. This increases the absorbency and improves the dyeability of cotton yarns and fabrics (Kadolph, 2007). The new shape of the fibres give mercerised cotton a distinct soft lustre. 5|Page CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS Women’s Underwear Panties, regardless of the cut and style and the fabric they are made of, are basic items to be found in a woman's lingerie drawer.There are different kinds of panties out there and women do have their preferences as to what type of panties to wea r. Some women own different types to wear for different outfits and different occasions, while some opt for just one or two types and stick to them. Determining your proper panty fit requires knowledge of two components: waist measurement and hip measurement. The hardest part about purchasing lingerie that fits well and looks good, is knowing what to look for. There are so many choices in fabric, style and size to choose from today.Therefore, the apparel chosen for this part of the study is women’s underwear. In specific, one of the most comfortable women’s underwear; cotton French cut panty with 83% cotton/ 17% spandex, fabric content. There are no side seams making the panties extra comfortable. The French cut waistband resists the urge to bunch or fall down. It is also flattering hi cut legs for moderate front coverage. The french cut underwear rises to natural waistline providing full back coverage. 6|Page Cotton’s role in the chosen apparel – Womenâ €™s Underwear The best fabric choice for panties for health reasons is cotton.The reason is that panties with a cotton crotch breathe more naturally. Cotton, not only allows for air circulation but also has good moisture absorbency with natural moisture content of 7% and 21% absorption before dampness can be felt (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003 and the cure book). This means, perspiration is absorbed well making cotton is the best fabric choice for athletic activities. Cotton also has a soft and natural appearance as well has the wicking element keeping your skin dry (Anandjiwala, 2007). Cotton panties are often reasonably priced, last for a while and are comfortable.In addition to that, cotton has no tendency to provoke an allergic reaction as it is a â€Å"non-allergenic† fibre making it suitable for anyone to wear (Anandjiwala, 2007). Garments made out of cotton can be tossed in the washer with little worry because it withstands tearing or ripping during laundering (Humphries, 2009) and other rough handling. Cotton underwear with lycra or spandex keeps its shape the best. Many manufacturers now offer cotton panties in colors, prints and even dress them up with ribbons and lace. REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR COTTON IN WOMEN’S UNDERWEARAs a product developer, answers to the questions below could help to demonstrate an understanding of the characteristics required in the fibre replacements for a women’s underwear. Will it be as comfortable in general and at the most important area of the panty which is the crotch? Can it conform to the body lines yet not restrain body movements? Will the replacement fibre compromise the fit of the underwear? Is there a change the requirements in wash care? Does the replacement fibre have resistants to shrinkage? 7|Page Can a fashion element be added to garment if the fibre has changed?What are the possible benefits of replacing cotton with another fibre? We ignore many wonderful natural products which have potentiality to become useful textile but were never tried seriously. Considering textile from natural resources the consumption is increasing in such a galloping rate that even renewable resources are becoming nonrenewable. The method of manufacturing textile in the modern era causes pollution to considerable extent. The composites containing plant fibres are important because of their renewable nature, low cost and amenability to chemical and mechanical modifications (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012).Manufacture of synthetic fibres also causes pollution. For this reason, there is a need to search for non-conventional renewable resource for textile to give an effective solution. Plant fibers have been used for making paper and clothing for a long time and the need for use of natural fibres has increased greatly. Among natural fibres, 90 per cent are of vegetable origin and among them 80 per cent is constituted by cotton and the remaining by other long vegetable fibres like flax, jute, hemp, sisal, ramie, coir, abaca, banana and pineapple fibres.They are classified as minor fibres (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012). However, this study will demonstrate two of the major fibre’s; banana fibre and hemp as an alternative to cotton in women’s underwear. 8|Page Banana Fibre The bananas or the plantains are essentially hot climate plants. Their original home is said to be the tropical forests of Asia. The plant gives fibre for manufacturing textiles, its leaves are used as plates to serve food besides of course many medicinal virtues in India. The plant grows easily of its own as it sets young shoots.All varieties of banana trees abound in fibres. In fact almost each and every part of this plant gives fibres of various strength, colour, beauty and staple length thus, can be used for various purposes. In the leaf sheaths, coarse and strong fibres are found on the outer ones, fine and silky in the inner most ones and those of the middling quality in the intermediate ones The core, from the roots to the point of its emergence from the covering of the false stem contains an extremely white fine fibre, soft, lustrous and can be processed on jute machinery (Chand, Tiwary & Rohatgi, 1988).The fruit stems contain fibres of a rough variety, while the midribs of the leaves yield a fibre of exceptional strength and durability when properly processed. Individual cells in banana fibres are relatively longer and therefore these sources can produce long fibres (Reddy & Yang, 2005). 9|Page The outer sheaths produce the coarsest fibre. Very often they are very brittle and break at the slightest jerk. The practice is to reject two or three of the outer sheaths. The innermost two or three of the sheaths are also rejected because of the percentage of pulpy matter they contain.Only the intermediate sheaths are exploited for the purpose of fibres (Kulkarni, 1983). About 37 kg (average weight) of stem yields about 1 kg of good quality fibre. The yi eld is about 1-1. 5% of dry fibre. The fibre obtained from the central core is of lower quality. The fresh banana plant yields about 0. 61. 0% of fibre, depending on the variety and method of extraction used. The low cost mechanical device can extract 15 to 20 kg of fibre from the banana waste as compared to 500 g a day by the laborious manual process (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012).The inherent drawback of banana fibre is its poor quality and higher irregularity, owing to the multi-cellular nature of the fibres. The individual cells are cemented with lignin and hemicellulose and thus form a composite fibre. Banana fibre is classified as medium quality fibre and performs very well in combination with other fibres for making fine articles like handicrafts, currency, etc (The Hindu, 2011). The stronger fibres are ideal for cordages while the weaker white inner fibres are best suited for value added fancy items.They are being produced and exported in India from Kerala and is suitable for manufacturing strings, ropes, cords, cables and ship building thread (Kulkarni, AG, Satyanarayana, Rohatgi & Vijayan,1983). It can also be used to make sacks and packing fabrics as well as mats and rugs. Due to high cellulose and low lignin content, its use in the paper industry to make tissue, filters, specialty nonwoven, document, printing, surgical and hygienic applications, coffee bags, meat casings and more(Kulkarni, AG, Satyanarayana, Rohatgi & Vijayan,1983). Banana Fibre can be used as fibre to manufacture fabrics.It is being used for making bags, table mats, ropes and twines (The Hindu, 2011). The fibre can be powdered and different colours of fibre obtained using natural dyes, which can be made into beautiful pictures. It can be blended 10 | P a g e with other natural fibres or synthetic fibres without any problem to produce large varieties of garments from this fibre. It has good strength and has silk like luster (AsiaPulse News, 25 Aug 2008). It can partly r eplace cotton fibre and hence we can estimate potential for it on the line of estimating demand for cotton fibre.It may be noted that good quality Banana fibre is having strength and luster like silk and in the Philippines various garments are already manufactured from Banana fibres (AsiaPulse News, 25 Aug 2008). Apart from it, Philippines is exporting huge quantity of readymade garments like shirts, kimonos, gowns, nightwear and more. The banana fibres were reported to be elegant and highly versatile. As they do not crumple easily, these fibres have been used in the manufacture of dress materials. The fineness of texture depends on the quality of the fibre used.The material has a beautiful sheen and is used for making wedding gowns and barongs. Hand-extracted fibres have been used to produce handbags, wall hangings, table mats and other fancy articles. The composite material prepared by using banana fibres is purely biodegradable, renewable, non-toxic and potential user-friendly ma terial (Kiruthika, Priyadarzini & Veluraja, 2012). Banana fibre – alternative for cotton in women’s underwear The benefits of wearing banana fibre underwear go beyond the comfort of the fibre.Banana fibre has other unique and amazing properties not found in other fabrics. Banana fibre characteristically enjoys good luster, is lightweight and offers strong moisture absorption which are all necessary performance characteristics needed in underwear. Besides that, the banana fibre is a completely natural fabric, being made from the bark of the banana plant. Also, banana, being a relatively easy fiber to spin, provides the soft, smooth and extremely comfortable result people have come to expect from top quality underwear brands. 1 | P a g e In fact banana fibre has come to be recognized as one of the most comfortable eco friendly fibres ever made, setting the standard high for sustainable fabrics. Since banana fibre is fully origin natural product, it has very good compatib ility with other natural fibres like cotton, coir, pineapple fibres and jute in blending (Fibre to fashion, 2009). Banana fibres are naturally hypoallergenic and is pesticide free; making it the perfect solution for anyone with sensitive, or allergy prone skin.It can be blended with cotton or viscose fibre to produce blended fabric. Banana fibre can also be dyed easily like other natural fibres and cloth made from it can also be dyed and printed like cotton cloth. They do not shrink and the colour doesn't fade after a wash (Times of India, 23 May 2009). It also has exceptional strength and durability when properly processed. The banana fibre also plays a major role in environmental and economic sustainability as it is biodegradable; the textiles are produce from the waste of the plant and do not require much effort to grow. Dr.Rajan P Nachane, Principle Scientist and Head, Quality Evaluation & Improvement Division of Central Institute for Research on Cotton Technology, says, â€Å" Being completely biodegradable and naturally occurring, the banana fibre products are expected to be in great demand in the international markets as they pose no toxic effects to man and the environment† (Fibre to Fashion, 2009). Recently in 2010, an Australian brand by the name of â€Å"AussieBum† has been the first brand to have used banana fibre in men's underwear; therefore it can be used for women’s underwear as well (PR Newswire, 2010).There are many countries now venturing in to banana fibre to manufacture textiles including India, Japan, Africa and China. 12 | P a g e Aussiebum Advertisement for banana fibre underwear for men Hemp Hemp fiber has been used by mankind to make textiles dating back to the stone age, â€Å"defined by Shultes in 1970 as a green, very abundant and ubiquitous plant, economically valuable and possibly dangerous† (Mussig, Jorg; Stevens, Christian, 2010).While the fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the hemp plant ,com monly referred to as Bast used in the creation of textiles, industrial hemp has a wide range of uses including to paper, cordage, bio-fuel, health food and biodegradable plastics. 13 | P a g e Unlike cotton, hemp requires virtually no chemicals like pesticides, herbicides (Miraftab et al, 2007). It is can be grown practically anywhere from northern latitudes to tropical climates and is naturally resistant to most pests and grows very densely (Mussig, Jorg; Stevens, Christian, 2010).From a cost perspective, hemp is less expensive to farm because of its minimal growth requirements. The valuable bast fibers, which give the plant its strength, are contained within the hollow wood-like core of the plants stalk under the outer most bark and runs the length of the plant anywhere from 3 to 15 ft long (Kadolph, 2010). The primary fibers average 8†³ in length and can be spun or woven into a fine linen-like type fabric. These fibers are now commonly blended with other fibers such as flax, cotton, wool, linen or silk. Hemp can be weaved as intricately as lace, smooth as silk or as coarse as burlap (Global Hemp, 2000).Modern hemp blends created today for the garment industry are cool to touch and comfortable to wear. While hemp garments are often comparatively more expensive than those made from cotton due to higher processing costs and limited quantities, its superiority is clear. One of the most commonly known attributes about hemp fiber is its exceptional tensile strength (Anandjiwala, 2007). In addition, the fiber is naturally antimicrobial and resistant to ultraviolet light as well as mold, mildew, heat and insects which makes it excellent for outdoor wear.The fiber is not only many times more durable than cotton but warmer, softer and more water absorbent. This also makes hemp more absorbent to dyes and thus less prone to fading. Hemp garments can be dyed or left in a â€Å"natural† state, which means no dye at all. When left un-dyed, garments come in var ying shades of beige which is the natural color of the hemp fibers after processing. The primary countries supplying hemp to the US include China, Hungary, Thailand, Romania and Chile with production coming from other nations including Australia, England, Canada and New Zealand as well. 4 | P a g e Hemp – alternative for cotton in women’s underwear The advantages of hemp as a replacement for women’s cotton underwear are numerous. Hemp’s fibers are longer and stronger than cotton, each hemp fiber is a foot long or greater, compared to two to four inches for the best cotton fibers. What’s more, hemp fibers are hollow like linen, which means that it breathes and cools as well as linen and better than cotton, yet is more durable and stronger than cotton which fits the bill as performance characteristic required in underwear.Moreover, fabrics made from hemp do not compromise human health or the environment in their production as it requires far less wat er, fertilizer and pesticides than cotton to grow. Besides that, hemp has excellent insulating properties that keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Hemp fibers actually soften with each washing without fiber degradation, hence a longer wash care life cycle. Hemp production uses significantly less chemicals than cotton which makes it more sustainable and naturally more suitable for people with chemical sensitivities.The fiber is completely biodegradable, holds its shape as good as polyester but also has breathability. Eco-friendly methods of both dyeing and finishing have been developed for this fibre as well. Famous Levi Strauss used a light weight hemp canvas for its original pair of jeans. Since that time, hemp has been used to make many types of garments and accessories. Big names such as Patagonia, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren have recently marketed products made from hemp. Hemp is a miraculous fibre, it is a sustainable, easily renewable resource and is used for food, clothing, energy and more (Miraftab et al, 2007). 5 | P a g e COMPARISON BETWEEN BANANA FIBRE AND HEMP WITH COTTON Properties Fibre: Length Fineness Handle Strength Wrinkle recovery Drape Luster Moisture absorbency Thermal properties Wash care stability General durability General comfort Breathability Non-allergenic Relative cost Biodegradability Cultivation properties: Water consumption Harvest frequency Cotton Short staple fibre Banana Fibre Hemp Medium to very long staple fibre Very fine to coarse Very soft to medium, cool Strong to Very Strong Poor to Fair Fair Poor Very Good Very Good Very Good Good Good Excellent Yes Low Excellent degradationMedium to long staple fibre Fine Fine to coarse Medium to hard, Soft to medium, cool cool Strong to Very Strong Strong Poor Poor to Fair Poor Good Poor Good Good Good Fair Good Good Good Yes Low Slow degradation Very Good Good Good Good Good Excellent Yes Low Excellent degradation High Once a year Low As many throughout year Almost none Requires humidity Low times the Twice a year Almost none Can be grown under any weather conditions Makes the soil fertile and cultivable for other crops 16 | P a g e Chemicals and High Pesticides Growing conditions Requires humidityAffects on land No crop rotation of growth No crop rotation PART B – MANMADE FIBRE (NYLON) Nylon Structure & Characteristics Nylon is a man-made fibre, made from synthetic polymers. It is also known as polyamide because it belongs to the family of amide compounds (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It is melt-spun. Nylon is available in multifilament, monofilament, staple and tow (untwisted bundle) varieties. Nylon fibres are transparent unless they have been delustred or dyed (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon gives a medium to hard handle (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).Properties Nylon has excellent strength, though it may lose up to 20% strength when wet, though this usually has no effect on garments as the fibre is so strong. It could be conside red one of the strongest fibres (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003, Kadolph, 2007). Nylon has excellent abrasion resistance. Nylon has high elastic recovery and high elongation. It can fully recover from an 8% stretch, and 91% from a 16% stretch, immediately (Kadolph, 2007). Whilst having the highest moisture absorbency of the synthetic fibres, it is not very hydrophobic. It has natural moisture content between 2. -5%, and can absorb up to 7% before feeling damp (Kadolph, 2007, Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylon is an insulator of heat. 17 | P a g e Nylon is an incredibly light fibre (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon is resistant to alkalis though may yellow with repeated exposure. Nylon is not resistant to acids (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Resistance to sunlight is fair to good but prolonged exposure to sunlight is not advisable as it can weaken fibres. Nylon is resistant to biological attack by insects and fungi, though food soil on carpets may attract insects, and fungal growth may appear on soiled articles in humid conditions (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003, Kadolph, 2007).Advantages Excellent abrasion resistance allows nylon articles to be durable and resilient, and resistant to pilling, shedding, fading, abrasion, soil and stains. High elasticity and elongation of nylon allow it to have very good wrinkle recovery, making it an excellent fibre for hosiery type uses. It also adds to minimise the appearance of bagginess or excessive garment distortion (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). It also has contributes utility in carpets where fibres need to spring back after compression, meaning traffic paths do not develop quickly (Kadolph, 2007).Its low moisture absorbency allows nylon garments to be quick drying. Slight wrinkles in garments disappear on wearing from body heat (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylon can be heat-set due to its thermoplastic nature, meaning permanent pleats, creases and embossed designs can be made (Kadolph, 2007). Heat-setting and the low-absorbency of nylon means that shrinkage is low (Ka dolph, 2007). The lightness of nylon combined with its strength, makes nylon an appropriate fibre for action wear and sports gear (Kadolph, 2007).Alkaline resistance leads to easy-care of the garments (Kadolph, 2007). Nylon is dry-cleanable (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). 18 | P a g e Disadvantages Low moisture absorbency means that nylon can become transparent when wet (with perspiration), and clammy in warm, humid conditions (Kadolph, 2007), making it uncomfortable to wear unless worn over an absorbent-fibred article. It also means that static electricity is readily generated (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Prolonged laundering above hot temperatures and repeated ironing can yellow nylon (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003).One must take care when laundering under hot temperatures as nylon’s heat-setting ability can manifest permanent wrinkles which are impossible to remove without causing some fabric distortion (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Nylon’s low resistance to acids can cause yellowing due t o deterioration and dulling of colour. This can occur from industrial air pollution or from perspiration. Bleaching accelerates yellowing in nylon (Gohl & Vilensky, 2003). Unique to Nylon During spinning, different shapes can be extruded through the spinneret, giving nylon fibres different, sometimes more natural, qualities.The regular cross-section shape of nylon is round. Non-round fibres (such as trilobal, pentalobal and voided fibres) are used generally for upholstery and carpets as round fibres reveal soil and look dirty very quickly, therefore giving products a clean look, even if soiled. This is because non-round shapes are able to scatter the light to hide soil, and also duplicates the matte luster of wool and other natural fibres (Kadolph, 2007). 19 | P a g e CHOSEN APPAREL CHARACTERISTICS Outdoor Jacket Outdoor Jackets, is generally an apparel to be found in a man’s wardrobe especially in cool climate countries or those who are active in sports.There are different k inds of outdoor jackets out there for different purposes. Some men do have their preferences as to what type of jackets to wear. Some men own different types jackets to wear for different purposes, while some opt for just one or two types of common ones and stick to them. Determining the correct outdoor jacket requires some knowledge regarding fabrics and apparel accessories for different weather conditions and sports. The hardest part about purchasing an outdoor jacket is getting the right kind of jacket for the right purpose without worrying about the elements during the sport or weather condition.There are so many choices in fabric, style and size to choose from today. Therefore, the apparel chosen for this part of the study is men’s outdoor jacket. In specific, one of the most common multipurpose men’s outdoor jacket; consisting of 100% nylon fabric content. The jacket has a thermal reflective lining that boosts your body’s heat retention 20 | P a g e keepin g you warm. It comes complete with an adjustable storm hood, draw cord hem and venting zips, making it perfect for outdoor adventures in adverse conditions.REPLACEMENT FIBRE FOR NYLON IN MEN’S OUTDOOR JACKET Nylon is used in this apparel as it is an exceptionally strong material, with low-absorbency and elastic characteristics. It can be dyed easily and is simple to wash, a big plus for outdoor wear. This resilient fabric is very typical in the outerwear market; again, despite its many benefits, a supplementary coating is often added to nylon fabrics to increase their protective capabilities. Like polyester, nylon is woven into different material weights, which is indicated by a gauge measurement (ie. 80g polyester).The waterproof/breathability rating issued by the manufacturer is the easiest way to determine whether a particular jacket will work under your desired conditions (Kadolph, 2010). It has some level of water-resistance. To ensure that there aren't even the slightes t holes made by stitching the fabric together, manufacturers usually seal the seams of the garments to prevent any moisture from creeping in to the most exposed areas of the garment: the shoulders, arms and side seams on jackets. Critically taped seams are good enough under most conditions, though fully taped seams will offer the highest amount of protection to the earer under the foulest conditions. Windproof or wind-resistant fabrics are made by weaving the fibers of the material extra tightly to prevent wind from penetrating the garment and reaching the wearer (Lyle,1982). 21 | P a g e Tencel Tencel is a natural, manmade fibre made from eucalyptus wood pulp from sustainable tree farms, which is also referred to as lyocell The wood pulp is processed in a non? toxic organic solvent solution that is reclaimed and recycled in a closed? loop spinning process that conserves energy and water. Up to 99 percent of the solvent is recovered and reused (Kadolph, 2010).Furthermore, the proces s by which the fibers are made into fabric is environment friendly, 100% biodegradable. Tencel fabric is an astonishing eco friendly fabric making the landmark in the development of environmentally sustainable textiles. Tencel textiles are created though the use of nanotechnology in an award-winning closed-loop process that recovers or decomposes all solvents and emissions (Mak et al, 2006). The advantage of Tencel clothing is the variety and exceptional comfort you can experience. The main benefit of clothing made from this unique fabric is the moisture and temperature control it offers to the wearer.Wood pulp is naturally designed to absorb moisture for the tree’s survival; the fibers that are made into cloth do the same. Furthermore, these versatile Tencel fibers blend well with other fibers such as wool and cotton to create textiles more durable, soft, and moisture controlling than man-made fibers. Tencel clothing provides maximum comfort whether indoors or outdoors. Tenc el is an especially smooth fiber, and has softness comparable to cotton and silk. 22 | P a g e The nanofibrils can also be altered to create fabrics that feel like suede, silk, denim, or as though they had been treated for a peach-skin finish (Mak et al, 2006).Tencel – alternative for nylon in Men’s Outdoor Jacket There are many benefits of Tencel as a replacement for men’s outdoor jacket. According to recent dermatological studies, wearing clothing made of Tencel significantly improves comfort and promotes a feeling of well being (Diepgen, 2004). Also, Tencel is chemical free, an important factor for sensitive skin and people with allergies. The fabric pulls moisture directly from the skin and releases it into the air. Synthetic materials such as nylon do not take in moisture at all, but leave a film on the skin’s surface. Sports and outdoor textiles of 100% synthetic fibers can lead to higher skin and body temperatures and thus to a reduction in the ath lete’s performance. † (Lenzing website). While cotton absorbs moisture, Tencel is 1 ? times as absorbent. Moreover, it fibrillates during wet processing to produce special textures (Kadolph, 2010). Cotton and nylon can both leave moisture on the skin in humid weather; however Tencel does not, ensuring that bacteria will never get a chance to form between the fabric and the skin (Schuster et al, 2006). This makes Tencel a truly safe fabric for all skin types and even for babies.The fiber is economical in its use of energy and natural resources, and is fully biodegradable. †The use of Tencel improves the thermal insulation of outdoor clothing† (Lenzing website). The heat loss experienced in a cold environment is much lower in the side with Tencel than in the side containing only polyester or nylon which is a good performance characteristic needed for outdoor jackets. Waddings of Tencel can be warmer than those of polyester even with the same thickness. This gi ves more options in terms of garment styling, freedom of movement, as well as optimum wear comfort (Schuster et al, 2006). 3 | P a g e Aerogel Aerogel has exceptional physical properties such as extremely low thermal conductivity, low sound speeds, low dielectric constant and high optical transparency, which make its materials highly suitable for a wide variety of applications such as thermal insulation for extreme weather gear, space suits, cryogenic pipes, space shuttles and more (Technical Apparel, 2005). â€Å"Aerogels belong to a fascinating class of nanoporous materials derived by sol-gel technique which possess sophisticated potentialities for a range of applications† (Fricke, 1986). The term â€Å"aerogel† is composed of â€Å"air† and â€Å"gel†.A gel consists of two components, a gel scaffold and a filling medium. In case of the aerogel, the filler is simply air. Aerogel is manufactured by delicately removing the liquid from a silica alcogel by super-critical drying, replacing it with nothing but air, which makes up 99. 8% of the final product Some aerogels have a density as low as 0. 001 grams per cubic centimeter (Thermablok website). Aerogels are characterized by exceptional physical properties such as; extremely low thermal conductivity and weight, low sound speeds, low dielectric constant and high optical transparency (Fricke, 1986). High surface area porous materials from aerogels are of great importance especially as catalyst, catalyst supports, thermal insulators, sensors, filters, electrodes and burner materials† (Hermann et al,1995). Aerogels unique properties can be extremely helpful in designing flexible and lightweight insulation materials from textiles. The attractive energy absorbing properties of aerogels may lead to their use in various applications. 24 | P a g e Aerogels – alternative for nylon in Men’s Outdoor Jacket There are many advantages of using Aerogels as a replacement for men ’s outdoor jacket.Aerogel has the highest insulating performance, therefore can be used for the development of wide variety novel high performance products such as outdoor jackets (Thermablok website). It is a good property to have for protection from extreme cold weather conditions and keep the body warm. Aerogel is also has minimum weight and thickness allowing flexibility in fashion and design options. One of the extraordinary properties that he discovered was their very low thermal conductivity (Aerogel website). Aerogel also is a very durable fibre and can be washed in normal wash cycle and maintains performance under load. It is strong and flexible for emanding outdoor conditions (Hermann et al, 1995). The production and use of silica aerogels is environmentally benign. No significantly hazardous wastes are produced during their production. The disposal of silica aerogels is perfectly natural. In the environment, they quickly crush into a fine powder that is essentially identical to one of the most common substances on Earth, namely, sand. Additionally, silica aerogels are completely non-toxic and non-flammable. If they eventually find their way into widespread use as protective materials, they could eliminate a very large amount of unwanted plastic materials (Aerogel website). 5 | P a g e COMPARISON BETWEEN TENCEL FIBRE AND AEROGEL WITH NYLON Properties Strength Abrasion Moisture absorbency Insulation properties Thermal properties Wash care stability General durability General comfort Breathability Non-allergenic Biodegradability Nylon Good Resistant Poor Good Low Good Good Poor Fair No Not biodegradable Tencel Good Resistant Poor Good Moderate Fair Good Excellent Good Yes Aerogel Very good Resistant Poor Excellent Low Very good Excellent Excellent Good No Excellent degradation Excellent degradation 6 | P a g e CONCLUSION Man has always exploited the resources available to improve or develop their clothing. However, this report provides a new vie w to alternative textiles and the exciting breakthroughs that were made in creating fibres that not only have the performance characteristics but also to be more sustainable and environmentally sound. Throughout the report, compelling ideas of replacement fibres are suggested working towards a new fashion ethic. Fibres are a critical component in textiles.An increasing interest has develop recently about the raw materials sourcing and production by the consumers, brands and retailers. It covers all aspects from water consumption, land usage and relative environmental impact. Sustainability is a global megatrend; an essential attribute of today’s textile and clothing industry. Knowledge, skills and commitment are required in the process of transforming textile industry into more sustainable one. Use of Sustainable fibres in textiles is a part of this process and a step towards this milestone.Fibres like cotton and nylon fibres have a high consumption in energy and environment as well as landfill. Therefore, alternative options of fibres should be considered to incorporate issues that related to sustainability. Fibers suggested in the report such as banana fibre, hemp, tencel and aerogel are good for the planet because it is low in environmental impact. Some of the fibres have better performance characteristics than cotton and nylon. The damage which takes place during some of step for production of textiles for the apparel industry has also been discussed in the report.The use of these fibres in the apparel industry is rather limited. However, these fibres have potential to be used in fashion apparel and also other industries. Fashion is the name of change and change is the part of life. People’s desires and needs have no limits and companies are continuously striving to fulfill the consumer needs. Many fashion companies are working on this platform from hundreds of years, but technology and innovations change the company thinking and also surroun dings change the people trends and 27 | P a g e arieties of products born in comparison to both changes. Consumers are becoming aware of sustainable concerns and want sustainable products that work for environment. Many fashion companies are still working with conventional cotton products and making a lot of fashion products with multiple designs and colors. But these things are not workable for a long time. Customers are becoming aware day by day and want products that are good for their skin and bring comfort for them. And this learning makes customer aware about harmful and hazardous products they are using in their daily life.The future of textile industry will depend on the products that have reduced environmental and social burdens during their entire product life cycle. A part of this is the introduction of sustainable materials that will reduce these impacts during their growth and processing. And this report will provide fashion companies good knowledge of sustainable fiber s (the raw material for their products) and brief description about their properties to support the use of these fibers in their product that will serve the society as well as environment. RECOMMENDATIONS 1.The report is an option for textile companies or retailers to consider options available to them to make informed decisions on alternative fibre choices for the selected apparel. 2. Some of the alternative fibres have new and unique elements that can be beneficial in the terms of design, fashion and functionability that can be considered 3. Textile companies or retailers as well as brands are only focusing on creating ecofriendly textiles with organic cotton or wool and not other replacement fibres that could be more environment friendly, it is recommended that companies research further on it 4.The banana fibre is a fibre that has not been experimented in many countries yet it cost effective and eco friendly, it is recommended that companies could look in to growing banana fibre to increase the natural sustainable plant 5. The fibre’s suggested will help fashion companies to diversify their businesses 28 | P a g e REFERENCES Books & Journals Anandjiwala, R. D. , (2007) Textiles For Sustainable Development, Nova Science Publishers, Incorporated. Blackburn, R. S. (2009) Sustainable textiles: Life cycle and environmental impact, Taylor & Francis.Chand, N, Tiwary, RK & Rohatgi, PK (1988) ‘Bibliography Resource structure properties of natural cellulosic fibres — an annotated bibliography', Journal of Materials Science, vol. 23, no. 2, pp. 381-7. Chen, H-L & Burns, L. D. , (2006) ‘Environmental Analysis of Textile Products', Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, vol. 24, no. 3, pp. 248-61. Collier, B. J. , Bide, M. J. , Tortora, P. G. , (2009) Understanding Textiles, Seventh Edition, Pearson Education Inc. , New Jersey, USA Dermatological study of the textile compatibility of TENCEL ®, 2004, Univ. -Prof. Dr. T. L. Diepgen, Heidelber g, GermanyEngineering Science Paper, (2012) Study on Performance and Application of Banana Fiber and Banana/Cotton Blended Knitted Fabrics Gohl, E. P. G. , Vilensky, L. 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C. , Suchomel, F. , Manner, J. , Abu-Rous, M. and Firgo, H. (2006), Functional and Comfort Properties of Textiles from TENCELFibres Resulting from the Fibres' Water-Absorbing Nanostructure: A Review. Macromol. Symp. , 244: 149–165. doi: 10. 1002/masy. 200651214 Technical Apparel (2005), Design News, 60, 18, p. 56, Business Source Complete, EBSCOhost, viewed 4 September